![]() ![]() Now with even more thread contact and fresh sealant I was sure it was good to go. I purchased a new, longer bolt at 4 1/2 inches and coated the threads heavily with the Permatex (which I have been using since the 1970's by the way). OK, I removed the bolt which measured a hair more than four inches. The bolt was already good and tight, but I tightened it further still. I remembered having put a good quantity of brown, sticky Permatex on the bolt threads (including the other 3 bolts that pass into the water jacket) so I was surprised to find a drip. When I first tried to re-fill the coolant for the first start after restoration, the bolt in question began to leak as soon as I began to fill the system with the second gallon of coolant. I had removed the water pump, cleaned and painted it, and reinstalled it with new gasket, of course. The last three years the vehicle was being restored, so the engine has not run during that time. ![]() The subject powerplant is a circa 1980 318 block that was rebuilt professionally about 10 years ago using a cast iron 273 water pump (vehicle is '65 Formula S). I take it the left head showed no signs of fluid in the cylinders?Īdditionally, the bottom row of head bolts do pass into the water jacket, make sure they and all the other bolt threads and bolts themselves are clean so they don't catch on dirt and show the improper torque readings.I know this is a mysterious but common problem and wanted to document my personal experience (for all posterity) with the bolt that serves to hold the bracket to adjust the alternator on one end and also serves to secure the water pump. At the same time, the heads are pretty tough and rarely warp or crack, which, hard ot say for sure, and since the head is off, get it magnafluxed and pressure tested before reinstalling. Intake does not have any water passage in it, so Valiant67 was right about that, but, do your heads have the water attachment on the front of the heads for the water pump? Not that it really matters, all big block heads fit all big blocks, so that can't be a problem, but, did the engine run prior to the exhaust manifold change? Was there any overheating associated with the decision to change the manifold? If there was an overheating problem, the head gasket could have been compressed, then when she cooled and you did the manifold change, the fluid can pass the fire ring and if it hadn't been running after cooling, you would not see it on the gasket surface. I do agree with the lack of proper torque on the head bolts to start with, but what is the history of the engine? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. especially with no pressure.The head gasket looks fine. I removed the right cylinder head and the 2 rear cylinders were FULL of coolant.even if the sealant wasnt tight on the bolts, it seems like an aweful amount of coolant to be getting in there from that. i did not use the original bolts when reinstalling the manifolds but i used new 3/8" UNC bolts with a teflon sealant on the threads. but after leaving it for a couple of days, i turned it over and she was full again!. I thought it may have seeped in through the open exhaust port when i took the manifold bolts out because the bolts do not have blind holes but go into the water jacket. ![]() ![]() I later found out that the cylinders were full of coolant and with the spark plugs out, it sprayed everywhere. When i was finished and filled her with coolant, she wouldnt turn over at all. I had to replace a cracked exhaust manifold on the right side and decided to replace both gaskets. Ive recently gotten a 79 Dodge motorhome with a 440 engine. ![]()
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